After the video starts click on the bracket box in the lower right corner for full screen.
HOW TO INSTALL THE EZ-LIFT
FIRST: The warnings...
1. To use the EZ-LIFT you must be physically able to step up and shift all of your weight on to the foot-pedal at a height of 12" - 13"! The mechanical advantage of the longer lever comes at the cost of greater distance, so the arm starts lifting at that height.
2. The Gold Wing weighs over 800 Lb! Lifting it by hand can easily hurt you and result in dropping the bike. Lift only on a flat, level surface, with the side-stand down, the handlebars straight, the transmission in neutral and the suspension raised to the highest position.
3. The Bracket attached to the center-stand arm adds 3/4" to the outside of the arm. This makes it easier to ground in a left turn. Although it sits well above the footpad feelers, if you routinely ground the center-stand arm or crash-bars in turns, do not install this product!
4. It is important that the bracket be securely attached to the center-stand arm so it does not rotate while lifting the bike. Any after market accessories may interfere with use of this product.
5. The foot-pedal extends farther outboard from the bike centerline than the stock footpad. While lifting, this increases the chance of tipping the bike toward you. Keep your weight as close to the bike centerline as possible, and maintain pressure on the foot-pad.
If, for any reason, you do not feel safe using this product, please return it for a full refund including return shipping.
BEFORE INSTALLING OR USING THE EZ-LIFT, RAISE THE REAR SUSPENSION TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION.
Assembly requires a 4mm Allen wrench. Also a soft face mallet or wooden handle screwdriver may be needed to bump loose the two halves of the bracket so you can reposition them. They fit tightly and may bind on the center stand arm after being tightened.
The EZ-LIFT comes assembled. Study it before disassembling, noting the relationship of parts. The two-piece Bracket & Saddle-clamp (with 5 bolts in it) attaches to the STOCK center-stand arm, pulled outward against the center-stand footpad, with the parting line of the two pieces in a vertical orientation. (Photo)
The edge of the bracket with two bolt holes goes on top (12 O'clock position) closest to the muffler heat-shield.
The second assembly, the arm/foot-pedal, is deployed only while raising the bike on to the center-stand. DO NOT RIDE WITH IT INSERTED IN THE BRACKET!
A good starting position is shown in photo. Insert the arm in the bracket temporarily, and position the bracket so the foot-pedal is perpendicular to the centerline of the bike.
Using a 4mm Allen Wrench, tighten all 5 bolts securely. Continue tightening the bolts until all 5 are tightened to a uniform 7 Ft/Lb. This will take several iterations to get them all to the same torque. During the first lift verify that the Bracket does not rotate on the center-stand arm. If it does during the lift you could lose control of the bike.
If you need to change the position of the bracket, loosen the bolts and use a soft mallet to loosen the bracket halves, they fit very tight on the stock arm. Very small rotational changes of the bracket will produce a large amount of change in the pedal’s position. Proceed slowly when making adjustments. There are complex angles at work....
Ideally, when the bike is in the raised position, the arm will lay parallel to the ground and the foot-pedal will be level to the ground, viewed from the rear. Alternately, the foot-pedal is fine if the outboard end is slightly elevated. The outboard end of the foot-pedal should NOT slope away from the bike centerline as this could cause your foot to slip off during lifting. Since the starting position can't be adjusted with the bike on the center-stand, it may take a few attempts to finalize the position.
LIFTING THE BIKE:
All the safety considerations that accompany the stock center-stand still apply to the EZ-LIFT. Use the grab-bar and handlebars to stabilize the bike and to maintain your balance during the lift. Keep your body weight close to the bike centerline to minimize tipping.
Slip the machined end of the arm into the T-slot of the Bracket, as far as the stop-screw. Rotate the foot-pedal so the pad is horizontal and below the axis of rotation. The foot-pedal is made so it will rotate under your foot during the lift.
While applying weight to the foot-pedal, stand the bike upright using the grab-bar and handlebars. Assure that both footpads of the center-stand contact the ground equally. This is easier if you apply pressure to the foot-pedal in a rearward/downward arc as you rock the bike to verify both feet are in solid contact with the ground. At this point, because of the additional Arm length, your foot may be under the rear crash-bar. Assure that the ball of your foot is securely over the foot-pedal pad and cannot be trapped under the crash-bar if you remove weight from the foot-pedal. You will have to stand up & on to the pedal, with all your body weight, so the prior step is important.
You may use the normal procedure of standing on the foot-pedal while applying lifting force to the grab-bar. Alternatively, face the right rear speaker while standing on the foot-pedal and lifting the grab-bar. While much less effort is required, some lifting on the grab-bar helps stabilize the bike while your weight does most of the lifting.
When the bike is upright on the center-stand remove the Arm from the T-slot and stow it under the rubber strap in the left saddlebag.
Foot position is tight at the top of the arc, and some experimentation may be needed to become comfortable using the additional leverage/travel provided by the longer arm. The added length & longer travel may seem awkward at first. But, once you master the technique, the job is much easier.
Photo 1 Photo 2
Your rack will have all the hardware pieces attached. I have supplied two strips of self adhesive padding that replace the small rubber bumpers supplied in the kits. They serve two purposes; to provide padding that protects the rack finish from contact with the trunk bottom, and to properly tension the latch for a snug "no bobble" fit. Having the padded strips attached to the trunk leaves a clean look to the rack, and protects the trunk bottom.
The padded strips attach to the bottom of the trunk and are easily positioned for best effect by attaching one side at a time.
Some GTR1400 grab-rails do not offer a flat, horizontal surface for the rack. There are some variations during assembly. Lay the rack in the mounting area and press down on one side. If the other side rocks up significantly, installation may be difficult. First, try to install the rack, using the original stock bushings and screws and:
A. Start both screws on one side a couple of threads.
B. Press down on the other side and start those screws a couple of threads.
C. Tighten all 4 screws to the recommended torque (52-69 inch/LB). That's INCH LBS!
If the screws don’t engage easily, try loosening BOTH reflector brackets slightly so the nuts can align.
If you cannot start all 4 screws easily, you may need longer screws, please contact me. Always observe the manufacturers weight limits of no more than 10 Kilos or 22 LBS.
If the brushed aluminum surface on style A or B becomes discolored or stained it can be easily restored with a random / orbital sander and 200-grit sandpaper.
Remove the stock rack mounting hardware, it will not be used with the Rails. Attach the adjustable-rails to the grab-rails using the small washers & long bolts. The Rails are reversible and can move the rack forward or backward. Attach the rack to the rails with the large washers and short bolts. Select holes that position the rack in the desired location.