After the video starts click on the bracket box in the lower right corner for full screen.
HOW TO INSTALL THE EZ-LIFT
FIRST: The warnings...
1. To use the EZ-LIFT you must be physically able to step up and shift all of your weight on to the foot-pedal at a height of 12" - 13"! The mechanical advantage of the longer lever comes at the cost of greater distance, so the arm starts lifting at that height.
2. The Gold Wing weighs over 800 Lb! Lifting it by hand can easily hurt you and result in dropping the bike. Lift only on a flat, level surface, with the side-stand down, the handlebars straight, the transmission in neutral and the suspension raised to the highest position.
3. The Bracket attached to the center-stand arm adds 3/4" to the outside of the arm. This makes it easier to ground in a left turn. Although it sits well above the footpad feelers, if you routinely ground the center-stand arm or crash-bars in turns, do not install this product!
4. It is important that the bracket be securely attached to the center-stand arm so it does not rotate while lifting the bike. Any after market accessories may interfere with use of this product.
5. The foot-pedal extends farther outboard from the bike centerline than the stock footpad. While lifting, this increases the chance of tipping the bike toward you. Keep your weight as close to the bike centerline as possible, and maintain pressure on the foot-pad.
If, for any reason, you do not feel safe using this product, please return it for a full refund including return shipping.
BEFORE INSTALLING OR USING THE EZ-LIFT, RAISE THE REAR SUSPENSION TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION.
Assembly requires either a 4 or 5mm Allen wrench. 4mm for button-head screws, 5mm for socket-head cap-screws.
The EZ-LIFT comes assembled. The two-piece Bracket & Saddle-clamp (with 5 bolts in it) attaches to the STOCK center-stand arm, pulled outward against the center-stand footpad, with the parting line of the two pieces in a vertical orientation. (Photo-1)
The edge of the bracket with two bolt holes goes on top in the 12 O'clock position.
The second assembly, the arm/foot-pedal, is used only when raising the bike on to the center-stand. Once the bike is on the CS, remove the arm immediately.
DO NOT RIDE WITH IT INSERTED IN THE BRACKET!
There are two methods for attaching & adjusting the bracket on the CS arm. Method-1 may require a helper but is more accurate.
Attach the bracket to the CS arm with one bolt on each side. snug the bolts enough so the bracket doesn't move.
Either drive the rear wheel on to a board or have a friend help to raise the bike on to the Center Stand.
Using the short end of a 90 degree Allen wrench, working underneath the bracket, slightly loosen 1 bolt so the bracket can rotate.
Insert the arm into the T-slot. Aline the foot-pad and axle parallel to the floor viewed from behind, with the bracket outboard on the CS arm as far as it will go.
Tighten both bolts, remove the arm from the T-slot, roll the bike off the CS and place it on the side stand.
Re-insert the arm in the T-slot and verify that it will swing back/down and clear the rear tip-over bar (Photo-2).
Insert the remaining bolts and Tighten all 5 bolts multiple times to 7 Ft/Lb..
Using all 5 bolts, lightly attach the bracket to the CS arm. (Photo-1)
Insert the arm in the bracket and position the bracket so the arm swings back parallel to the centerline of the bike. Verify the foot-pad clears the rear tip-over bar (Photo-2). Tighten all 5 bolts multiple times to 7 Ft/Lb..
If you need to change the position of the bracket, loosen the bolts and, if necessary, use a soft mallet to loosen the bracket halves, they fit very tight on the stock arm. Very small rotational changes of the bracket will produce a large amount of change in the pedal’s position. Proceed slowly when making adjustments. There are complex angles at work....
Ideally, when the bike is in the raised position, the arm will lay parallel to the ground and the foot-pedal will be parallel to the ground, viewed from the rear. Alternately, the foot-pedal is fine if the outboard end is slightly elevated. The outboard end of the foot-pedal should NOT slope down from the bike centerline as this could cause your foot to slip off during lifting. Since the starting position can't be adjusted with the bike on the center-stand, it may take a few attempts to finalize the position. (OR, try method-1)
LIFTING THE BIKE:
All the safety considerations that accompany the stock center-stand still apply to the EZ-LIFT. Use the grab-bar and handlebars to stabilize the bike and to maintain your balance during the lift. Keep your body weight close to the bike centerline to minimize tipping.
Slip the machined end of the arm into the T-slot of the Bracket, as far as the stop-screw. Rotate the foot-pedal so the pad is horizontal and below the axis of rotation. The foot-pedal is made so it will rotate under your foot during the lift.
While applying weight to the foot-pedal, stand the bike upright using the grab-bar and handlebars. Assure that both footpads of the center-stand contact the ground equally. This is easier if you apply pressure to the foot-pedal in a rearward/downward arc as you rock the bike to verify both feet are in solid contact with the ground. At this point, because of the additional Arm length, your foot may be under the rear crash-bar. Assure that the ball of your foot is securely over the foot-pedal pad and cannot be trapped under the crash-bar if you remove weight from the foot-pedal. You will have to stand up & on to the pedal, with all your body weight, so the prior step is important.
You may use the normal procedure of standing on the foot-pedal while applying lifting force to the grab-bar. Alternatively, face the right rear speaker while standing on the foot-pedal and lifting the grab-bar. While much less effort is required, some lifting on the grab-bar helps stabilize the bike while your weight does most of the lifting.
When the bike is upright on the center-stand remove the Arm from the T-slot and stow it under the rubber strap in the left saddlebag.
Foot position is tight at the top of the arc, and some experimentation may be needed to become comfortable using the additional leverage/travel provided by the longer arm. The added length & longer travel may seem awkward at first. But, once you master the technique, the job is much easier.
Photo 1 Photo 2
Remove the stock rack mounting hardware, it will not be used with the Rails. Attach the adjustable-rails to the grab-rails using the small washers & long bolts. The Rails are reversible and can move the rack forward or backward. Attach the rack to the rails with the large washers and short bolts. Select holes that position the rack in the desired location.
DUE TO A CHANGE IN DESIGN AFTER THE FOLLOWING VIDEO WAS MADE, THERE ARE NO 6MM WASHERS PROVIDED. SIMPLY INSTALL THE BRACKET WITH BOLTS ONLY!
Some GTR1400 grab-rails do not offer a flat, horizontal surface for the rack. There are some variations during assembly. Lay the rack in the mounting area and press down on one side. If the other side rocks up significantly, installation may be difficult. First, try to install the rack, using the original stock bushings and screws and:
A. Start both screws on one side a couple of threads.
B. Press down on the other side and start those screws a couple of threads.
C. Tighten all 4 screws to the recommended torque (52-69 inch/LB). That's INCH LBS!
If the screws don’t engage easily, try loosening BOTH reflector brackets slightly so the nuts can align.
If you cannot start all 4 screws easily, you may need longer screws, please contact me. Always observe the manufacturers weight limits of no more
than 10 Kilos or 22 LBS.
If the brushed aluminum surface on style A or B becomes discolored or stained it can be easily restored with a random / orbital sander and 200-grit sandpaper.
To install a bracket or plate using the T-nuts, start a bolt in the small end of the T-nut, align it so it will drop through a slot until it clears the rack underneath, turn 90 degrees, pull up into the slot and tighten from above. With the rack removed, you will see a pressed metal bar holding the tail-light. Press down on the tail-light housing enough to bend the tabs and lower the tail-light just enough to allow the T-nuts to slide between it and the rack.
Your rack will have all the hardware pieces attached. I have supplied two strips of self adhesive padding that replace the small rubber bumpers supplied in the kits. They serve two purposes; to provide padding that protects the rack finish from contact with the trunk bottom, and to properly tension the latch for a snug "no bobble" fit. Having the padded strips attached to the trunk leaves a clean look to the rack, and protects the trunk bottom.
The padded strips attach to the bottom of the trunk and are easily positioned for best effect by attaching one side at a time.